Grand Canyon - Plateau Point & Bright Angel

After leaving the Tonto Trail we stopped to enjoy lunch at Indian Garden along the Bright Angel Trail.  We  were sitting on a bench minding our own business, when suddenly the people behind us started yelling "Squirrel!  Squirrel!".  Well, we caught this fat little ball of fur trying to make off with our bag of dried fruit!  So brazen they are and used to being fed by people, it came right up behind our bench, reached up and grabbed the bag out of the pile of assorted lunch snacks we had set out.  After filling our bellies and our water bottles (the corridor trails offer potable water spigots & bathrooms along the way), we headed out another trail way had never had time to explore, Plateau Point.  This trail is an out and back (3 miles round trip) from Bright Angel to a look out over the river.  Well worth the hike!

` remember - click to enlarge pics! `

 

A panoramic to the West

 

To the East

The river is running muddy due to the recent rains

 



Looking back South to the wall that awaits our ascent out of the canyon.

 Back on Bright Angel for the long (4.9 miles +3060 ft elevation) climb out, it didn't take long for Jim to find some love and encouragement.

 

Later in the afternoon, we switch backed our way up and in and out of shade along the contours of the canyon wall.

 



The switch backing trail is so steep that you can spit down on the trail you just walked on.  Although, I don't recommend it.  However, playing shadow puppets is acceptable.

 



Jim points out a knob jutting out over the abyss, near the 3 mile water stop, where 7 years ago during our honeymoon descent we stopped for a little scenic lovin'.

It's all fun and games, unless you're afraid of heights.

 



Closer to the top, I glance back for a parting view.  As the lighting changes along with the passing clouds, the views are always different.

 



 Bright Angel Trail head

 

This is not a day hike for those not in shape.  (And no, round is not a shape!)  The elevation change is significant, like a reverse mountain climb.  Only the climb is at the end and you don't have the downhill gravitational pull to help you like on a regular up and down climb.  Consider the South Rim is at an average of 7,000 ft in elevation, that's already much higher than where most people live (what's the elevation at your house?) kind of like you're starting at the top of the mountain.  People who are fit at sea level are not necessarily fit at elevation and may experience altitude issues.  Luckily, Jim and I reside higher than this and thus experience a boost in oxygen at lower elevations.  There are signs everywhere warning people not to go down to the river and back in one day.  Jim and I stopped at the Back country Office the day before to purchase a new map and were given a wonderful sticker.  "Down is Optional - Up is Mandatory"  It is put out by the search and rescue.  People seem to think that there is some magical fairy that just plucks you out of the canyon and carries you to the top if you get tired.  Ummm... NO!  After speaking with a ranger on Bright Angel, he explained how they do get people out.  First the tired hiker gets to stay the night in the canyon, not in a cabin or tent, just where ever they happen to be when they decide they have to stop for the night.  Then they get to try again, the next day.  If they insist on being "rescued", fine, the park service will send a mule down to carry them to the top - to the tune of a $300 bill!!  Mule rides aren't free, even for those who need to be "rescued".  Note I say "rescued", because if there was actual medical emergency (life threatening) they would helicopter you out - Who knows how much that bill would be!  So again, I stress this hike is not for the out of shape.

 

When we started the morning, I overheard an experienced hiker tell a first timer, "On the way out, you know you're getting close to the top when you start seeing fat people and children."  True that!  I noticed what I like to call the "Fashion Strata".  It's similar to the geological strata layers of rock you see along the canyon walls, changing with elevation.  It seems to start at about the 1.5 mile water stop, people in khakis, polo shirts and spiffy new white tennis shoes.  As you climb up (closer to the trail head), you might see teenagers in Chuck Taylor's with no socks (UGH!  Imagine the dust rubbed blisters?!) or perhaps a well dressed man in Penny Loafers.  Even closer yet, you are guaranteed to see ladies in dresses, glittery sandals (sometimes even heels!), fancy handbags and name brand labels on nearly everything.  See, as you reaching for the top and your legs are wobbly and your spirit is diminishing, the entertainment factor starts to climb, lifting your inner laughter and drowning out the aches and pains that may be ailing you.

 

But hey, at least even these people are making an effort to something wonderful and majestic instead of sitting in front of the television. (Don't get me wrong, there was plenty of texting, selfies and other annoying techno crap to be seen.)  As for us, we shut down the technology for the day, tuned out and dropped in - the canyon that is! 

 

Hope you have an opportunity to escape soon,

even if it's just for the afternoon!



Grand Canyon - Tonto Trail

After 4.3 miles of leap frogging other hikers, we reached The Tipoff and turned West.  Leaving the freeway known as South Kiabab, we embarked onto a single track trail that would traverse the south wall of the canyon along a plateau averaging 3,800ft in elevation.  We would follow this trail to the next freeway, Bright Angel, 4.5 miles away.

 

*Click on photos to enlarge*

 Looking West - Can you find the trail?

 

A whole new environment. 

Hotter and more arid, trees were few and far between the scrubby little shrubs.

 



Off in the distance we spied a huge cottonwood tree.  Knowing they symbolize water in the desert, we were excited.

 

Burro Spring

But we never expected this!  Holy Oasis!

Gingerly, Jim steps from rock to rock to avoid soaking his shoes in the boggy mess below.

 



Damsel Fly

What a delight of color and diversity to find in the depths of the canyon.

Pipe Spring

A bit further down the trail we came across another spring.  This one had a wider bed and was actually running.  There were more trees and large rocks offering us a comfortable place to rest and eat.

 



The trail follows the contour of the south wall, going in and out of box canyons.  A new perspective of the South Rim's Yavapai Point.

One of the original telephone line poles installed across the canyon a 100 years ago.  Comprised of galvanized pipe and glass insulators, they are still standing and have the wires strung between them.

 



Jim saying good bye to the trail...

and the peace and quiet.

 

While we were enjoying the Tonto trail, never saw another hiker.  We picked up a few bits of trash but never encountered another person (or mule).  It was a beautiful experience in Desert Solitaire.

 

But wait there's more!

We still have to climb OUT of here!

Check back for the final ascent...

Grand Canyon - South Kiabab Trail

Jim and I are coming up on our 7th anniversary.  When we got married we honeymooned at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  Since then we have gone back to celebrate our anniversary somewhere in the park.  This year I got a three day weekend (albeit a few weeks before than our anniversary), so we decided to celebrate early.  I scored a cancellation hotel room for Saturday night and we camped out under the stars Friday night.  On Saturday we did a 17 mile hike down into the canyon, staying along the south wall, and explored some trails we had seen signs for but never had the time to hike.  Follow us along the trail for some amazing views...

 

~ Click to enlarge photos - way worth it! ~

 

Saturday Morning Sunrise

(taken from a moving truck window)

 

South Kiabab Trail Head (parking area)

 

South Kiabab Trail Head (actual)

When asking strangers to take a picture, we tend to take a couple, who knows which ones will or  will not turn out.

 

The far off North Rim from the top of the trail.

 

 Descending...

 

 Did we mention it was crowded?

O'Neill Butte on the right.

 

At Skeleton Point we came across an artist, Joshua Been.

As it turns out we were at the park during the 6th Annual Grand Canyon Celebration of Art.  It's a week long event featuring many artists painting "En plein air", a French expression that means "in the open air".  They were scattered across the rim and a few in the canyon, providing onlookers with a peek of creation in motion.  There were demonstrations scheduled, exhibits and of course items for sale.  After a few words with Joshua, we discovered he is a neighbor of sorts.  He hails from Salida Colorado, funny what a small world it is.

A view down and across the south wall at the trail we will be traversing on soon.

 

The steep and exposed switchbacks are constructed so beautifully.  I can't imagine being a part of the trail crew that built these trails about 100 years ago with such basic tools and crappy footwear.  I love my feet and we invest in excellent shoes for adventures such as these.  When I look at the black and white archival photos of the history of the canyon, my toes and heels cringe at the broken down old boots that adorn their feet.  Imagine the bleeding blisters!

 

South Kiabab is considered one of three corridor trails leading in/out of the bottom of the canyon.  It's well maintained and heavily travelled.  It is the shortest and steepest of the three.  Starting at 7,260 feet in elevation then dropping down to 2,480ft at the bridge that crosses the river, that's -4,780ft over a quick 7 miles.  It's like descending flights of stairs in some sections.  It is located East of the Main Village area and one must take a shuttle to get there, due to it's "out of the way" location it's less crowded (only slightly) than the other South rim trail, Bright Angel. 

 

Check back for more miles and views to come your way soon, as we start our traverse across the south wall.

And the Adventure continues...

 Load 'Em Up & Move 'Em Out!!

Or hold onto one of them on a leash so they don't go running down the road - AGAIN.

 

We outfitted three of the goats with packs before we shouldered our own packs.  The idea is to have the goats carry stuff but being the Maiden Voyage none of us really wanted to risk our stuff going over the side of the mountain or in a creek due to an unruly critter.  So, they carried insignificant things like cans of beer - along with their own supplies (leashes, food, etc.)

 Jim the Goat Wrangler

 

Once we got walking the goats fell right in line and followed us up the trail.  We took turns eatin' dust at the back of the line, making sure no one got too distracted and kept moving.

 



Hummmm - goats and water?

Well, a few walked, a few jumped / splashed and one had to be drug by the horns.

All in all it was a successful crossing.

 



The line-up:

John, Carter & Little the dog, Pam, Ol' Tom, Jim, Tractor, Dolly, Midnight, Daisy

(not pictured - Me and Peanut Butter)

 



Jim was trying to convince Rider to carry his pack.

Rider and his family (not pictured) met up with us on the trail during their day excursion.

 

 

My John what a BIG PACK!!

Isn't that why we brought the goats?  To help carry stuff?

 

Jim and his new "lap dog" Daisy.

 

As not to have a repeat of the first night, a few of the goats were tied.  Being true herd animals, they stayed together in camp.  Again, it rained most of the night.  Huddled in our tent and the goats huddled under the trees, Ol' Tom bleated his protest into the night.  Luckily he's old and didn't vocally complain for too long before succumbing to his dark damp bed with the others.

Pam forgot to tell me that Ol' Tom loves peanut butter almost as much as beer.  Probably why he was so interested in our peanut butter & agave syrup pancake tacos.

 



Carter decorated our camp while the rest of us finished packing up.

A few pictures to greet the next campers.

 



Ol' Tom is not so sure about this packing thing.

Don't worry Buddy, it's all downhill from here!

 



 

I guess Tractor hates the water so much he would rather "tightrope" walk across the fallen log.

 



Back at the trucks, we were greeted by this beautiful moth.
(corrected by Jim - it's a butterfly)

 

I hung a skull I found a few days earlier (when searching for goats).

I hope that it's left there to welcome others to the area.  Unfortunately, I realize that many people will consider it a treasure and take it home to display in their own yards.

 

John and Tractor

Farewell guys and thanks for the adventure!!

 

We had a great time and there were uncountable funny goat things, like hanging out with a bunch of 3 year olds on energy drinks!  I don't know that I will rush out and get goats of my own but I would go camping again.  For the most part they are pretty well behaved and follow well on the trail.  Eyes up when you stop though, they tend to scatter (like 3 yr olds) in search of snacks to eat or rocks to climb. 

 

Happy Goat Packing!!

 

 

Goat Packing?!

August brought unexpected extra time off for me.  I could have sat around and worried about the lack of $$ on my paychecks or I could embrace my new found free time.  I chose to embrace it!!

 

Jim and I did more stuff together and I tried to learn to relax A.K.A. sit on my butt and read a book all day.  We received an invite to go Goat Packing with our friends during that time.  Sure, why not, sounds interesting, entertaining, adventurous ... pick your adjective but you get it.  Two nights of car camping and one night of backpacking was the plan, how could we resist?  Did I mention this would be the Maiden Voyage for the goats?  Yes, they had done a few short hikes but not weighed down and not overnight.

 

So off to the mountains we headed -

4 Adults, 1 Teenager, 1 Dog and 6 (yes 6!) Goats.

 

Sit back and enjoy the antics that would ensue over the next couple days and nights.

Unleash the hoofed beasts!

After a slow drive (You can't haul as* around corners when towing livestock - OK I guess you can but I don't think they would appreciate it.) up to Silverton we stopped for pizza before heading to camp for the night.  The camp we wanted had a livestock pen but it was occupied when we arrived.  So we opted for another site for the night.

 Daisy offered Jim some help with setting up the tent.

Perhaps she was chagrined at his denying her because later that night she tried to climb on top of our tent.

 

Ol' Tom likes beer. 

Yep, he's right by your side when he hears that can crack open and fizz.  So I was wondering if he would like a sip o' wine.  Well, after a literal snootful (right up the nostril!) it dribbled down his lips and he was in heaven.  A few sneezes and a lot of lip lickin' and Ol' Tom became my new best friend.

 

After a fire and a few snootfuls for the adults we turned in for the night.  John was hoping the goats would just hang out in camp.  Kinda bed down for the night and call it good.  No such luck.  They went MIA sometime after midnight.  John quietly drove the road a couple times, more or less making sure they weren't chewing on someone else's camper or tent.  They were no where to be seen in the dark of night.

 

The next morning, the sky barely glowing and the humans without coffee, we went in search of the goats on the lamb.  All six sets of hooves were found, no harm no foul.  Coffee was made, then breakfast, then Jim, Pam and I set off on a hike up the trail we were planning to take the goats up the next day. 

 Jim & Pam

Behind them in the valley below was where we left John and Carter (their daughter) with the goats and dog for the day.  We needed to do a little scouting before the entire herd tackled this trail laden with packs.  Besides, John was hoping to lay claim to the campsite with the livestock pen as soon as it was vacated. 

 

 Jim at the first of three lakes at Highland Mary Lakes.

 

I am always amazed at the display of colors in the high back country. (12,000+ ft)



Forget your tent stakes,John?

Well, he got the new campsite by time had returned.

Another family had joined us for Night 2.  They brought a couple more dogs and two small children.



The ever industrious Rider, spent the better part of the afternoon rerouting the river with small channels.

 

I went about my camp cook duties as usual.  Only this time Chama made sure I didn't wander off, by securely holding my foot in place.  Jim & I aren't real versed in car camping and all the comforts you can bring along.  However, I scored this amazing 3 burner table top stove (thankfully John brought a table) just two days before the trip. 

Pre-yard sale shopping!

 

 Pam was right at home with their stove - complete with a large griddle that covers both burners for optimal cooking surface.

 

Jim entertained the kids by the fire until dinner was ready.

 

We all filled our bellies with warm food against the cooling air.  We circled the fire, roasted marshmallows and assembled s'mores as night fell around us.  We no sooner toasted the last 'mallow and ate the last bite of chocolate and the rain came. 

 

The rain lulled us to sleep with the pitter-patter on the rain fly of the tent.  The goats however, had no shelter.  As the rain continued into the night John donned his coat and shuffled the goats through the darkness and into the shelter of their trailer.  Smaller yet drier they slept without a sound.

 

Next comes actual backpacking with goats...

check back soon!