After leaving the Tonto Trail we stopped to enjoy lunch at Indian Garden along the Bright Angel Trail. We were sitting on a bench minding our own business, when suddenly the people behind us started yelling "Squirrel! Squirrel!". Well, we caught this fat little ball of fur trying to make off with our bag of dried fruit! So brazen they are and used to being fed by people, it came right up behind our bench, reached up and grabbed the bag out of the pile of assorted lunch snacks we had set out. After filling our bellies and our water bottles (the corridor trails offer potable water spigots & bathrooms along the way), we headed out another trail way had never had time to explore, Plateau Point. This trail is an out and back (3 miles round trip) from Bright Angel to a look out over the river. Well worth the hike!
` remember - click to enlarge pics! `
A panoramic to the West
To the East
The river is running muddy due to the recent rains
Looking back South to the wall that awaits our ascent out of the canyon.
Back on Bright Angel for the long (4.9 miles +3060 ft elevation) climb out, it didn't take long for Jim to find some love and encouragement.
Later in the afternoon, we switch backed our way up and in and out of shade along the contours of the canyon wall.
The switch backing trail is so steep that you can spit down on the trail you just walked on. Although, I don't recommend it. However, playing shadow puppets is acceptable.
Jim points out a knob jutting out over the abyss, near the 3 mile water stop, where 7 years ago during our honeymoon descent we stopped for a little scenic lovin'.
It's all fun and games, unless you're afraid of heights.
Closer to the top, I glance back for a parting view. As the lighting changes along with the passing clouds, the views are always different.
Bright Angel Trail head
This is not a day hike for those not in shape. (And no, round is not a shape!) The elevation change is significant, like a reverse mountain climb. Only the climb is at the end and you don't have the downhill gravitational pull to help you like on a regular up and down climb. Consider the South Rim is at an average of 7,000 ft in elevation, that's already much higher than where most people live (what's the elevation at your house?) kind of like you're starting at the top of the mountain. People who are fit at sea level are not necessarily fit at elevation and may experience altitude issues. Luckily, Jim and I reside higher than this and thus experience a boost in oxygen at lower elevations. There are signs everywhere warning people not to go down to the river and back in one day. Jim and I stopped at the Back country Office the day before to purchase a new map and were given a wonderful sticker. "Down is Optional - Up is Mandatory" It is put out by the search and rescue. People seem to think that there is some magical fairy that just plucks you out of the canyon and carries you to the top if you get tired. Ummm... NO! After speaking with a ranger on Bright Angel, he explained how they do get people out. First the tired hiker gets to stay the night in the canyon, not in a cabin or tent, just where ever they happen to be when they decide they have to stop for the night. Then they get to try again, the next day. If they insist on being "rescued", fine, the park service will send a mule down to carry them to the top - to the tune of a $300 bill!! Mule rides aren't free, even for those who need to be "rescued". Note I say "rescued", because if there was actual medical emergency (life threatening) they would helicopter you out - Who knows how much that bill would be! So again, I stress this hike is not for the out of shape.
When we started the morning, I overheard an experienced hiker tell a first timer, "On the way out, you know you're getting close to the top when you start seeing fat people and children." True that! I noticed what I like to call the "Fashion Strata". It's similar to the geological strata layers of rock you see along the canyon walls, changing with elevation. It seems to start at about the 1.5 mile water stop, people in khakis, polo shirts and spiffy new white tennis shoes. As you climb up (closer to the trail head), you might see teenagers in Chuck Taylor's with no socks (UGH! Imagine the dust rubbed blisters?!) or perhaps a well dressed man in Penny Loafers. Even closer yet, you are guaranteed to see ladies in dresses, glittery sandals (sometimes even heels!), fancy handbags and name brand labels on nearly everything. See, as you reaching for the top and your legs are wobbly and your spirit is diminishing, the entertainment factor starts to climb, lifting your inner laughter and drowning out the aches and pains that may be ailing you.
But hey, at least even these people are making an effort to something wonderful and majestic instead of sitting in front of the television. (Don't get me wrong, there was plenty of texting, selfies and other annoying techno crap to be seen.) As for us, we shut down the technology for the day, tuned out and dropped in - the canyon that is!
Hope you have an opportunity to escape soon,
even if it's just for the afternoon!
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